After spending a few days at an acetaia in Reggio Emilia, my appreciation for a true artisan aceto balsamico continues to grown.
In the pantheon of Italian food products one type of vinegar stands out above the rest - Aceto Balsamic from Modena.
It was so highly prized that Alfonso I, Duke of Ferrara, who took his ducal feasting seriously, even maintained his own acetaia, a loft where vinegar barrels are stored. From that time on and even before, those in the know have a true appreciation for a quality balsamic. For those who don’t and those non-believers who think that the balsamic vinegar on the grocery store shelf is “good enough” let me - let you - into the secret of balsamic because the balsamic vinegar you currently have on your pantry shelf may be a mass-market imitator.
The depth and personality of a true balsamic vinegar is based on flavor, appearance, texture, aroma and the quality of the grapes. Freshly pressed grapes, their skins, seeds, and stems (known as the must) are concentrated and aged in wooden barrels taking on the complex flavors of the casks.
Every year the fermenting grape must is transferred from larger to smaller barrels. The young vinegar matures and ages and the flavors progressively deepen into a character that is uniquely balsamic. These methods are very personal and involve patience, passion, time and the idea that the end product is something very special. Density, clarity, color, smell and taste are the benchmarks of a quality balsamic vinegar. A quality balsamic is syrupy, dark brown yet clear and bright, strong with sweet notes of aging barrel wood and a tart persistent aroma that transports you to the acetaia where it was made.
Over the centuries the legend and demand for balsamic vinegar has grown. Everyone wanted a taste of the Ducal balsamico of Renaissance Modena but traditional balsamic vinegar by its very nature could not be rushed and by its standards a costly production. Ensuring regional traceability and protecting the heritage of production was becoming more difficult. If you have been put off by the price point of a quality balsamic vinegar and less than satisfied with the off the shelf brands (full of preservatives and artificial colors) know that
there are some vinegars that use the word “balsamic” that are really just vinegar with sweetener and coloring.
big food companies responded to the demand for balsamic by adding thickeners and caramel colorants to mimic the look and texture of a traditionally aged balsamic.
commercial grade balsamic vinegars may be labeled as "Balsamic Vinegar of Modena" if they are, in fact, produced in that region but they are not recognized nor guaranteed as to authenticity of production according to IGP (PGI) protected geographical certification
when buying a quality balsamic you need to know your source because there are excellent balsamic vinegars made by tradizionale producers looking to provide a quality product at an accessible price point
However the secret of a traditional aceto balsamico goes beyond an understanding of its history and production. The secret of balsamic lies in the way Italians view the food they eat. Italians will not compromise on quality. They eat seasonally and rely on traditional regional ingredients and and take pride in their preparation. The origin of many of their foods is protected with each step of the process regulated according to set rules and traditions (IGP and DOP)*. The result is a legacy of food, high in nutritional value, beneficial to health and well-being. The nutritional benefits of the Balsamic of Modena were already well known by the time of the Romans who considered it to be a "medicament” (digestive disinfectant) for the legions in the Gallic campaigns of Julius Caesar. While not a substitute for medication, balsamic continues to be a recognized nutriceutical. According to a 2022 study published in Molecules, balsamic vinegar contains polyphenols and antioxidants that help combat oxidative stress, reducing the risk of chronic disease and improving overall health. Rich in minerals, balsamic vinegar contains healthy levels of calcium, iron, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium and manganese. A 2015 study published in the Journal of Diabetes Research cites balsamic vinegar as a health food that may improve insulin sensitivity and lower blood sugar levels after meals. Other studies confirm its probiotic status and benefit to the gastric microbiome.
Aceto balsamico is a product of both nature and tradition. Making a perfect balsamico with complexity and balance rivals the making of a great wine and teaches us in this age of immediacy that it is OK to wait for something special and that the quality of many of the foods we
eat has immediate and long term health benefits that we should encourage. That is the true secret of balsamico.
*designations for Italian products that ensure quality; the certifications are difficult to get and require a complete chain of custody for the product’s production.
Balsamic vinegar should be stored in a cool, dark place away from direct sunlight to best preserve the complexity of its flavors. Do not refrigerate. Cold can alter the flavor. Although the color may darken slightly and solids may precipitate out, this is normal and does not indicate spoilage or alter the taste of the vinegar. Do not leave the bottle open. Store it at room temperature. Properly kept a good balsamic will retain its quality for years.
Enjoy the sweet, tart, complex flavor profile and nutritional benefits of aceto balsamico from Modena with a Classic Caprese Salad fresh mozzarella and ripe tomatoes sprinkled with Dario Cecchini Profumo del Chianti Herbal Salt.
This Balsamic Vinaigrette made with Maletti Aged Balsamic Vinegar is tangy, slightly sweet and extremely versatile!
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