If you love Italian food you love tomatoes but unless you find a way to simulate the volcanic soil that makes the cultivars of Italy so famous you search local farmer’s markets or nurture home grown gardens to approximate the pulpy flesh and flavor of summer sun-ripened tomatoes. And when you find that perfectly ripe tomato you need to seize the season.
Carpe diem and seize the day with a Tuscan panzanella or a Caprese salad made with ripe tomatoes, extra virgin olive oil, fresh mozzarella cheese and fresh basil. Then pour yourself a Caesar, named the official cocktail of Canada by the Canadian Parliament in 2010. Similar to a Bloody Mary, a Caesar is a classic favorite at summertime parties and Canadian BBQ’s made with Clamato juice. The Canadians tend to be over the top with their garnishes so be creative. Leave out the vodka for this non-alcoholic version.
A Canadian Virgin Caesar
Puree 3 summer ripe tomatoes, 2 stalks of celery (coarsely chopped), a few sprigs of Italian parsley, sea salt and coarsely ground black pepper to taste in a food processor until smooth. Transfer mixture to a bowl and chill for at least 1 hour. Force the mixture through a mesh sieve into a bowl, discarding solids. Stir in a few dashes of your favorite hot sauce, Worcestershire sauce and a squeeze of lemon juice. All adjusted to taste.
Rim a glass with the celery salt, Old Bay or Caesar seasoning salt. In an ample glass combine ½ ice cold Clamato juice with ½ puréed tomato mixture . Garnish creatively with spicy garlic dill pickles, pickled onions, pickled asparagus, pickled beans, pepperoni stick, celery, bacon, jumbo cocktail shrimp, or a Dungeness crab leg. For an alcoholic version add an ounce of vodka.
Preserve your efforts, the tomato season is short. Instead of going without your summertime love or settling for mediocre, out-of-season alternatives make the most of the summer's bounty and enjoy tomatoes in the seasons to come using creative ways that go far beyond canning. Here are a few ways to extend the intense flavor of ripe summertime tomatoes.
Tomato Butter
Saute a small onion in 3 T extra virgin olive oil until soft but without taking on any color, 8–10 minutes. Add 2 cloves of finely chopped garlic, stirring, until garlic has softened, about 2 minutes. Add 1 T tomato paste and cook, stirring, until it begins to darken, about 2 minutes. Simmer 2 lbs of cored, peeled, seeded chopped ripe tomatoes. Add to chopped onion mixture together with a pinch of allspice and a few pinches of raw sugar. Simmer for 20 minutes until very soft and reduced. You’ll be left with a delicious tomato butter that’s perfect for spreading on crackers or sandwiches, hamburgers or brushing onto grilled chicken or fish.
Roasted Cherry Tomatoes
Toss 2 pints of cherry tomatoes, 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, a sprinkling of coarse sea salt, a sprinkling of your favorite Italian herb blend. Preheat oven to 450°F. Spread out the tomatoes in a single layer on a parchment lined rimmed baking sheet. Roast, tossing once, until tomatoes are blistered and beginning to burst, about 20–25 minutes. Let cool. The tomatoes can be kept in a jar for up to a week (refrigerated).
Serve as a side dish with grilled meat or fish. As a topping for bruschetta, pizza, pasta or polenta. Use as a filling for an omelet or frittata and as an accompaniment on charcuterie boards.
Make a batch of fresh tomato sauce with tasty summer tomatoes and fill a few zip-top bags for the freezer. Look for ripe, red tomatoes best found at your local farmer's market. This makes a bright-tasting sauce in a manageable small batch.
Summer Tomato Sauce
Ingredients
3 pounds medium on-the-vine tomatoes
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
⅓ cup diced onion
2 large garlic cloves, finely minced
½ teaspoon sea salt
1 tablespoon tomato paste
¼ teaspoon sugar
¼ teaspoon dried oregano
1 sprig fresh basil
pinch of allspice
Method
Remove stems and wash and dry tomatoes. Slice the tomatoes in half and remove the seeds. Coarsely chop tomatoes or use a box grater over a large bowl to press the cut side of the tomato flesh against the large holes of the grater to grate the tomato flesh into a bowl. Once all tomatoes are prepped, set aside.
Heat the olive oil in a medium pot over low heat. Add the onion, then the garlic. Saute until the onions becomes translucent and the garlic fragrant for 3 minutes. Add diced tomatoes, tomato paste, sugar, oregano, allspice and basil sprig. Turn heat to medium high with a slight bubble. Continue to heat until tomatoes begin to break down and become watery.
Let the sauce simmer over low heat for about 30 minutes until it is deep red and slightly reduced with a sheen of olive oil rising to the surface. Taste and adjust sugar and salt if needed. Remove from heat and discard the basil sprig. Sauce will keep up to 5 days in the refrigerator or may be frozen.
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